Adjust the heat in this riff on Thai tom kha gai to your liking—use one chile for mild heat, two for medium, and three if you want sweat beading on your brow.

Packed with clear-your-sinuses heat, this comforting and spicy coconut soup will warm you up on cold nights. Inspired by the classic Thai soup tom kha gai, this version has pieces of salmon instead of chicken and uses easy-to-find ginger instead of traditional galangal root.

1½ lb. skinless salmon fillet
2 tsp. Diamond Crystal
8 oz. mixed mushrooms
½ medium onion
3 garlic cloves
1 3" piece ginger
1–3 red or green Thai chiles or serrano chiles
2 lemongrass stalks
1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil
8 makrut (Thai) lime leaves or zest of 2 limes
2 13.5-oz. cans unsweetened coconut milk
2 Tbsp. fish sauce
1 tsp. sugar
2 limes, divided
Cilantro leaves with tender stems (for serving)
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